It has been 11 days on the ground, and I’m thoroughly enjoying my time meandering through this vast and dynamic city. Since arriving, I’ve been making a concerted effort to keep my expenses to a minimum, largely due to the uncertainty surrounding “Orange Caligula” and the impact of his policies on our currency. The fluctuations between our dollar and the Japanese yen have had a tangible effect on my daily life, shaping my choices and activities. To keep costs down, I’ve been exploring different neighbourhoods on foot and taking advantage of free events and attractions.
I’m currently staying in Sumida City, an area in eastern Tokyo that, while not the most densely populated of the city’s districts, still boasts a staggering 20,120 residents per square kilometre according to the 2023 census. The district is nestled between the Sumida and Arakawa Rivers, and my accommodation is just three blocks from the latter, mere metres from Yahiro Station. From here, I’ve been riding the metro all over the city in search of interesting, low-cost things to do. One of my recent excursions took me to the Asahi Breweries headquarters, where I toured the Asahi Beer Hall. Sitting atop the building is the infamous golden “Flamme d’Or” sculpture, designed by French artist Philippe Starck in 1989. It’s widely considered one of Tokyo’s most recognisable modern landmarks—but I have to say, it’s also one of the ugliest structures I’ve ever seen. Do you know about Pokémon GO? I didn’t—at least, not beyond the fact that my kids used to collect the trading cards (at great financial expense). But I stumbled into a team of enthusiastic Pokémon GO players in Kinshicho, one of Tokyo’s most popular locations for the game. They graciously let me tag along, despite the fact that I contributed absolutely nothing to their efforts. That said, I did meet two friendly players, Hansu and Pinky, who invited me for coffee. We chatted as they practised their English, until we eventually hit the limit of their vocabulary and my near-nonexistent Japanese. At their recommendation, I tried corn coffee, a peculiar combination of instant coffee and “corn milk.” It was drinkable, but the unexpected saltiness means I won’t be rushing to have it again. Another fascinating experience was a visit to an antique district, where I was surprised by the sheer abundance of Nazi memorabilia. I ended up speaking with an elderly shopkeeper who explained that during World War II, Japan had largely adopted Nazi symbolism after aligning with the Axis powers. He told me that, for a time, special German marks were even legal tender alongside pre-war Japanese currency. With the help of Google Translate and some enthusiastic gesturing, we had a deeply engaging conversation about his father’s memories of the war. His mother’s family, originally from Nagasaki, perished in the second atomic bombing—something that profoundly shaped his family’s view on war and Japan’s long-standing commitment to non-armament. He expressed his concern over the government’s current push towards remilitarisation, citing rising tensions with China. Speaking in hushed tones, he also confided that many Japanese people quietly resent the presence of American military bases on their soil. Near his shop, he pointed out a sign that read 「もう血は流れない」, which translates to “No more blood.” He said it has become a rallying cry for the growing movement against the government’s militarisation efforts. Dominating the skyline in this part of Tokyo is the Tokyo Skytree, a towering structure used by NHK and other broadcasters. At 634 metres (2,080 feet), it holds the title of the tallest tower in the world and the tallest man-made structure in Japan. I visited it last year and was blown away by the panoramic views—you can’t even see the edges of the city from that height. If the weather cooperates, you can catch a glimpse of Mount Fuji, but on most days, the haze obscures it. One of the more unexpected highlights of my time here was a visit to the Ad Museum Tokyo, a small but fascinating free museum dedicated to Japanese advertising before and after the American occupation. I had a thought-provoking conversation with a historian affiliated with the museum, who spoke about the impact of globalisation on Japan’s commercial industry. He argued that major corporations, both foreign and domestic, have largely homogenised Japanese advertising, diminishing its once-distinct cultural identity. He described this as a form of “cultural-commercial dominance,” where global brands impose a uniform aesthetic at the expense of local nuance. On a more everyday note, I continue to be fascinated by Japan’s convenience stores. Whether it’s 7-Eleven, Lawson, FamilyMart, or smaller chains, they offer an impressive range of products, including freshly prepared meals that are rotated every four hours to ensure freshness. I recently visited a huge 7-Eleven grocery store near Hikifune Station, which spans three levels and sells everything from food to housewares and even hardware. Grocery shopping here is an adventure, as most packaging is exclusively in Japanese. However, this store had English labels on about a quarter of its products—albeit in minuscule print. My biggest food-related misadventure so far has been Nattō—a traditional Japanese dish made from fermented soybeans. I bought a pack before realising what I was getting myself into. It’s typically eaten for breakfast with rice, karashi mustard, and soy sauce, but the texture and pungent smell are… an acquired taste. Unfortunately, I accidentally bought a four-pack, and since I dislike wasting food, I’ve resigned myself to finishing it before I move to my next accommodation in northeast Tokyo in a few days. Imagine sour-smelling beans coated in something akin to mucus—apologies for the mental image. I’ll keep you updated on my travels and am happy to answer any questions you might have! If you’re considering a trip to Japan, let me know—I’m planning to attend the Osaka World Expo in May and would love some like-minded comrades to join me. https://www.expo2025.or.jp/en/
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I've decided to start posting here on my website instead of giving Facebook my content to profit off of. This will be the main spot for my travelogues and photos, and I'll be sharing links to my "David in Japan" Facebook group and my Bluesky account (link).
I'd love for you to follow along, share your thoughts, and ask any questions along the way. Looking forward to the journey together! |
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